![]() ![]() Measurement.the length of the legs when they are about 8 degrees mean that they are basically the same as deired height. I did too when starting but now have lowered so that I can hold long pieces between my legs as a support while I have two hands to beat out leaves and texture.or forge welding. Some want the anvil top to be at knuckle height. Heigth is an argument that makes the Ford vs Chev debate seem insignificant. Three legs allow it to fit any floor and you certainly do not want your anvil rocking about.been there done that. ![]() By the time you do all that then the welding could warp. Should you want to remove the anvil two bolts loosened and carry away.Ī deck with less than 3/4 thickness is too springy too.but 1/2 might be used if you added some ribs under to keep it strong. It is the simpliest way and is quite speedy. On some others I built with a wider stance.which are better for twisting and bending from the hardee hole.well give me the near vertical one now and use the vise for twisting.Īngle iron with a bolt holding down the edge of the anvil is okay too. But if you really strike on the anvil the near vertical will help reduce the springiness. There will be others that will say the angle is too sharp on the legs.Okay by me. This fixture will ring like a bell until the sand mix is installed. The oil and sand really are a necessity and can be easily determined when it is installed. This may sound like a lot of work but it is much easier than working with angle iron material. and use heavy duty angle iron bolted into those waist holes. the hollowed out area between the feet of the anvil. We drill two holes larger than 1/2 diameter at the waist area. Install 3/8 plugs into the holes.the kind that are hex drive and will be lower than flush to the top. drill and tap 3/8 pipe threads so that fine sand and oil can be installed down each leg to near the top.tapping on the tubing as the sand is installed. I have used 1/2 inch and now realise it to be way too thin. The deck for the anvil should fit and a minimum of 3/4 thick. If possible use thick walled tubing with three passes of good welding at all positions. Use at least 1/2 bolts into the concrete (not lead sinkers) called red-heads. The pads on the floor section should be about 1/2 in thick and sufficient width and length.with a bolt hole.to be mounted on the concrete. Although I may be not as experienced as some I will now give you some insite on what Brian has shown me: If you are going to use an anvil at maximum performance then the legs should be about 8 degrees off vertical with the back two at 45 degrees off centerline as the third leg under the horn. Later I built stands for two of the Youngsmiths. Even the anvil stand and the anvil that Brian Brazeal uses as a a heavy hitting unit. The concrete floor isn't exactly level or smooth. I'm worried that I'll topple the structure over while pulling or pushing it around. I was also wondering whether I can reduce this to 3 feet instead of 4, since I am on uneven ground. The anvil must be somewhere between 200 and 250 pounds, or between 90 and 120kg, I think. The question is whether this will hold together nicely. Time is limited, and I would prefer moving on to smithing instead of fabrication. Most builds I see here use tubing, that I reckon will ring a lot more unless you fill it with sand and/or oil, which I'd like to avoid. Of course, I would then use either the same (or slightly lighter) angle iron to make bars going between the feet for added stability. My plan was to make a tight fitting angle-iron base for the anvil, and then weld 4 feet at a slight angle. The easiest material for me to get and use right now is angle iron, about 6x35mm, or around 1/4" thick and 1 3/8" wide on each side. I want to do my anvil stand this weekend, and I've been looking at plans. Haven't been around for far too long, but it looks like I'll having a nice forging workshop set up in the next few weeks. ![]()
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